Nafplio's Old Town: Walking Through Psaromachalas
Nafplio's historic centre sits on a small peninsula of the Argolic Gulf, north of Acronauplia. After Ioannis Kapodistrias arrived on January 8, 1828, the town was redesigned by engineer Stamatis Voulgaris with an orthogonal street plan — straight streets and squares you can still see in the lower part of town today.
But the Old Town isn't just neoclassical buildings and straight streets. Climb toward Acronauplia and you enter a completely different world: Psaromachalas — narrow, sloping alleys, stepped streets, Ottoman-era houses. It's the oldest and most authentic neighbourhood in town.
Psaromachalas: Nafplio's Oldest Neighbourhood
Psaromachalas — the "fishermen's quarter" — stretches along the foot of northwestern Acronauplia, above Staikopoulou street. It has existed as a distinct neighbourhood since the end of the Byzantine period, around the 13th century, home mainly to Greek fishermen who anchored their boats at the pier below the Five Brothers bastion — which is where the name comes from.
During the second Ottoman period (1715-1822), Psaromachalas was likely the only area within the walls where Greeks were permitted to live. The neighbourhood's centre was — and still is — the church of Agia Sofia, a Byzantine church (likely 11th-13th century), the only one allowed to operate within the walls from 1780 onward — after 65 years of prohibition following the Ottoman recapture of 1715.
In today's Psaromachalas square once stood one of Greece's earliest hospitals for the poor, operating from 1394 until the late 1940s, a bequest from the Florentine Duke of Athens, Nerio Acciaioli. It was demolished around 1970 — the only surviving trace is the small chapel of Agioi Apostoloi, originally built by the Venetians within the hospital grounds.
Author Georgios Rouvalis calls Psaromachalas "the soul of Nafplio" in his book of the same name — its residents are considered the town's oldest, and despite tourism growth, the neighbourhood still holds onto its customs and traditions.
What You'll See on the Walk
Stepped streets (dromoskales): Stone stairways-alleys climbing the Acronauplia rock, passing houses from different eras — some renovated with bright colours and flowers, others nearly in ruins. A prime spot for photographers.
Agia Sofia: The Byzantine church at the neighbourhood's heart.
Psaromachalas Square: Once home to the historic hospital — today only the small chapel of Agioi Apostoloi remains.
Ottoman-era houses: Many neighbourhood homes carry Ottoman architectural features — wooden construction, whitewashed walls, small doors and windows.
Practical Information
How to explore it: Start from Syntagma Square or Staikopoulou street and climb toward Acronauplia following the stepped streets — there's no fixed route; the point is to get a little lost in the alleys.
How long it takes: 30-60 minutes at a relaxed pace, longer if you stop for photos.
Best time to go: Morning or afternoon, avoiding peak heat — the climb in midday sun is tiring. Late afternoon light makes the house colours really pop.
Cost: Free.
Combine with: Psaromachalas connects naturally with the climb toward Acronauplia and the Five Brothers bastion.
See Also
What is Psaromachalas?
It's Nafplio's oldest surviving neighbourhood, built at the foot of Acronauplia from the 13th century, named after the Greek fishermen who lived there.
Why is it called Psaromachalas?
After the Greek fishermen who lived in the neighbourhood and anchored their boats at the pier below the Five Brothers bastion.
How long does the Old Town/Psaromachalas walk take?
30-60 minutes at a relaxed pace, depending on how much time you spend taking photos.
Is walking through Psaromachalas free?
Yes, it's public streets — no charge at all.
