Fragoklisia: The Building That Changed Religion Three Times
Few buildings in Greece have a history as layered as the Catholic Church of the Transfiguration of the Saviour in Nafplio, known locally as "Fragoklisia" (the Frankish Church). Climbing the stairs from Saint Spyridon Square, you'll find it on your right, in the neighbourhood still called "Fragomahalas" — named after the Franks who once lived there.
From Convent to Mosque to Church
The story begins during Frankish rule (1212-1389), when a women's convent of the Western rite likely stood on this site — historian Lambrynidis links it possibly to a monastery mentioned in the 1394 will of the Duke of Athens, Nerio Acciaiuoli. The building continued in use, at least as a church, through both Venetian periods.
A few years before the 1821 Revolution, the by-then ruined building was converted into a mosque — according to local tradition, by Fatme, widow of Aga Pasha, in memory of her husband. The low, large dome and the round base you see today, once a minaret's foundation, date from this conversion. 19th-century sources refer to it as "the mosque of Its Kale" (the inner fortress), due to its position near the northern side of Acronauplia.
After liberation, in 1839-1840, King Otto ensured the Municipality of Nafplio granted the former mosque to the Catholic Church — a gesture toward Greek Catholics, foreigners living in Greece, and Otto's own Bavarian soldiers. It has functioned continuously as a Catholic church ever since.
Greece's Oldest Philhellene Monument
Inside the church stands the oldest Philhellene monument of the Greek Revolution: a simple pine-wood arch, shaped like the façade of an ancient Greek temple, donated by French officer and ardent philhellene Auguste Hilarion Touret, dated 1841. The so-called "Touret arch" bears the names of the foreign volunteers who fell helping the Greek cause.
The church's courtyard/crypt also holds the bones of Philhellene fighters from 1821.
The Raphael Copy
The church also houses a notable copy of Raphael's "Sacra Famiglia" (Holy Family) — a gift, according to local tradition, from a member of the French royal family to Nafplio's Catholic community.
A Living Community Today
The Catholic church today serves Catholics from across the Peloponnese, as well as tourists. The Polish community forms a significant congregation — the parish priest is often Polish, and Easter is celebrated there with particular splendour, attended by members and officials of the Polish Embassy.
Practical Information
Location: Uphill from Saint Spyridon Square, "Fragomahalas" neighbourhood
Admission: Free
Hours: Regular services — check with the parish office
See Also
Why is it called Fragoklisia?
After the neighbouring "Fragomahalas" district, named for the Frankish residents of the Frankish rule period.
Was it always a Catholic church?
No — it likely began as a Western-rite convent during Frankish rule, became a mosque shortly before 1821, and was granted to Catholics in 1839-1840.
What is the "Touret arch"?
The oldest Philhellene monument of the Greek Revolution, a wooden arch from 1841.
