Saint George: The Church That Witnessed Greek History Firsthand
Few churches in Greece have hosted as many pivotal moments in modern Greek history as the Metropolitan Cathedral of Saint George in Nafplio's old town. This is where the first Governor of Greece was mourned. This is where the country's first king walked in, just after stepping ashore. All within less than two years of each other.
From Venetian Church to Mosque — and Back Again
The church was built in the early 16th century, during the first Venetian period. In 1540, when the Ottomans captured Nafplio, it was converted into a mosque — a fate shared by most Christian churches of the era. In 1686, when Francesco Morosini recaptured the town for the Venetians, Saint George's welcomed the victorious general with a ceremonial doxology. During the second Ottoman period, however, it became a mosque once again — until Nafplio's liberation in 1822, when it returned permanently to Orthodox use.
The Last Supper and Dimitrios Vyzantios
Inside, the church impresses with frescoes likely painted in the early 18th century, in a Western style. The most striking is the depiction of the Last Supper — a copy of Leonardo da Vinci's famous composition, a gift from Ludwig I of Bavaria, Otto's father.
In 1823, the frescoes were restored by Dimitrios Vyzantios — yes, the same author of the famous satirical comedy "Babylonia." Research from the Nafplio Municipal Archive (handwritten letters from Vyzantios himself) confirms his involvement in the work.
The Funerals That Marked Greece
Saint George's hosted the funerals of major figures of the Greek Revolution: Palaion Patron Germanos (1824) and Dimitrios Ypsilantis (1832), who was actually buried in the church's narthex.
The heaviest moment, however, came in 1831: the funeral of the assassinated Governor of Greece, Ioannis Kapodistrias, was held here. His embalmed remains stayed in the church's sacristy for about six months, until March 29, 1832, when they were transported by flagship to his native Corfu.
The Arrival of Otto
On January 25, 1833, just after disembarking in Nafplio, the young Otto, Greece's first king, entered Saint George's. His throne is still preserved inside the church today. In 1834, the Regency added the narthex and bell tower in memory of that arrival — the same year Saint George's officially became Nafplio's metropolitan cathedral. The official inauguration of the renovated church, however, didn't happen until much later, in 1870.
Practical Information
Location: Nafplio Old Town
Admission: Free (parish church)
Visiting hours: Usually open during service hours
Practical tip: Combine with a walk through the Old Town — it sits right along the same route.
See Also
Who was mourned at Saint George's in Nafplio?
Ioannis Kapodistrias in 1831, Dimitrios Ypsilantis in 1832, and Palaion Patron Germanos in 1824.
What does the church's most famous fresco depict?
The Last Supper, a copy of Leonardo da Vinci's work, a gift from King Ludwig I of Bavaria.
When did Saint George's become the metropolitan cathedral?
In 1834, the year the narthex and bell tower were added.
